How to Buy a Suit | Men’s Suit Buying Guide
Buying a suit is unlike any other purchase. It's your entry point into understanding tailoring, fabrics, and your personal style. It's an opportunity to reinvent your look and create a more polished, professional version of yourself. But stepping into a suit shop or tailors can feel daunting, especially if you're seeking something that will fit perfectly and last for years to come.
At Henry Bucks, we’ve been suiting Melbourne’s best dressed for over a century, so we get it. This guide is filled with practical advice and professional insights from our tailors. Read on to learn how to find the ideal fit, understand different suit styles and fabrics, common mistakes to avoid, and the secrets to buying a suit that feels custom-made for you.
Start By Understanding the Occasion
The first step to buying a suit is to define its purpose. Different suit styles and suit types serve different functions, so consider the formality, season, and even time of day you'll be wearing it. A sharp business suit is very different to black-tie attire or a relaxed summer wedding suit. Think about the specific events you'll attend, from business meetings to formal celebrations. While some suits are occasion-specific, you can also find styles that transition across different settings, making them a versatile addition to your wardrobe.
Understand Suit Types and Construction
The true character and quality of a suit lie in its construction. Here's our guide to understanding classic suit types, helping you make an informed decision around fit, customisation, and investment.
Off-the-Rack Suits
Also known as “ready-to-wear", off-the-rack suits are the most common, convenient, and budget-friendly option. One potential drawback is that they’re designed for an “average” physique. Men's suit jackets are typically sized by chest measurement (34-52 inches US/UK), with a standard 6-inch “drop” to the trouser waist (e.g., a 38 jacket to 32 pants). This standardised sizing often compromises the fit for different body types. So, achieving a tailored look almost always demands professional alterations, especially around the shoulders, waist, and sleeves.
Made-to-Measure Suits
Made-to-measure suits strike a great balance between cost and customisation, offering a significant upgrade from off-the-rack options. These suits begin with an existing base pattern, which is then tailored to your measurements. This process allows for a more personalised and precise fit without the extensive time and investment required for a fully bespoke suit.
Bespoke Suits
The uncontested king of suit types, the bespoke suit is truly a custom creation and the only choice of sartorial purists. Unlike made-to-measure, a bespoke suit is crafted from scratch, with a unique paper pattern created exclusively for your body. In Australia, a local hand-tailored bespoke suit typically takes 5–8 weeks to complete, with investments ranging from $1,800–$3,000. High-end services, involving multiple fittings, can extend this lead time to several months.
4 Tips to Find the Fit Right
A suit can be made from the finest fabric, but without the right fit, it simply won't live up to its potential. Here are the key areas to focus on for that perfect fit:
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Shoulders: The shoulder seam should sit precisely where your shoulder ends, with no overhang or pulling.
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Chest & Waist: Your jacket should button comfortably without pulling or creating 'X' wrinkles, that radiate outwards from the jacket's closure button when it's fastened
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Sleeve Length: Jacket sleeves should end where your wrist meets your hand, allowing a quarter to half an inch of shirt cuff to show.
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Trouser Break: This refers to how your trousers fall over your shoes, ranging from no break to a full break depending on your preference.
Beyond these measurements, it's still essential to consider the overall suit style and tailoring. Henry Bucks offers structured tailoring for a defined silhouette or soft tailoring for a relaxed drape. So, don’t risk disappointment. Book an in-store suit fitting today.
How to Choose the Right Fabric
Beyond fit, your suit's fabric is arguably its most defining characteristic. Here are the three best types of suit fabric we recommend and the advantages they offer.
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Wool: The ultimate all-rounder, wool is versatile, resilient, and drapes beautifully, making it suitable for most climates and occasions.
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Cotton & Linen: These are lighter, breathable options ideal for warmer weather and more casual settings.
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Tweed, Velvet, & Blends: These offer distinct textures and looks, often reserved for occasion-specific wear or colder seasons.
Remember, the weight and weave of the fabric will influence how your suit feels and the seasons you can wear it. A lightweight linen is crisp and breathable for summer, while wool is heavier and offers warmth and a richer drape for colder months.
Deciding on Suit Colours & Patterns
Choosing the right suit colour and pattern is one of the most creative and enjoyable parts of your journey! Here's how to navigate your options:
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Timeless Staples: Navy and charcoal are the most versatile and essential suit colours for any wardrobe.
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Strictly Formal: Black suits are traditionally reserved for formal evening events or professional roles.
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Versatile Choices: Consider mid-grey, taupe, and light blue for great versatility across various events and seasons.
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Pattern Possibilities: Understand when solids, subtle stripes, or classic checks are most appropriate to enhance your personal suit style.
4 Suit Style Details to Consider
What separates a good suit from a truly great one? It's all in the details. These subtle choices are where your personality and style can shine through.
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Lapel Types: Choose between the versatile notch lapel, the formal peak lapel that broadens the shoulders, or the elegant shawl lapel for black-tie.
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Button Configuration: Decide on a classic single-breasted jacket with one, two, or three buttons, or create a commanding presence of a double-breasted suit.
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Vents: The vertical slits at the bottom of the back of the jacket Select a single vent (common on off-the-rack) or double vents (classic and flattering.
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Fine Details: Pay attention to pocket styles (jetted, flap, patch), lining patterns, and cuff finishes (e.g., functional buttonholes) as these elements add a bespoke touch.
Setting a Budget for Your Suit
When you're looking to buy a suit, knowing your budget upfront is key. The investment can vary quite a bit depending on the suit type and level of customisation you choose. To help you plan, here's a suit price comparison guide.
|
Suit Type |
Average Cost (AUD) |
What’s Included in the Fee |
|
Off the Rack |
$500–$1,500+ |
Standard sizing, basic fabric and lining, ready-to-wear design, some basic alterations, often at an extra cost. |
|
Made to Measure |
$1,000–$2,500 |
Custom measurements, choice of fabric and lining, limited style customisation, fittings, and basic alterations. |
|
Bespoke |
$1,850–$3,000+ |
Fully custom pattern, multiple fittings, choice of premium fabrics and linings, hand-finished details, all alterations included. |
|
International |
$3,000+ |
Highest-end tailoring, luxury fabric choices, extensive fittings, unlimited customisation, all alterations. |
Remember, Don’t Skip Suit Alterations!
Even the most carefully chosen suit rarely fits perfectly off the hanger. This is where professional tailoring becomes essential. Alterations are the fine-tuning that transforms a good suit into a great one, with small changes like hemming trousers, waist suppression, or sleeve shortening making a significant impact on its drape and your overall professionalism. At Henry Bucks, our in-house tailoring services ensure your suit fits you as if it were custom-made, providing that final touch for a true investment piece.
4 Final Suit Buying Tips from Henry Bucks
Ready to buy your suit? Congratulations! Here are some final top tips from our tailors to ensure your success.
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Always bring the right shoes and shirt when trying on suits to get an accurate sense of the fit and overall look.
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Prioritise comfort! Never buy a suit that feels too tight, as it will restrict movement and look unflattering.
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If it's your first suit, start with classic colours like navy or charcoal for maximum versatility and timeless suit style.
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Don't forget to ask for fabric care advice to ensure your suit maintains its quality in the years ahead.
At Henry Bucks, we combine a century of tailoring mastery with unparalleled personal service. Visit our iconic store locations and experience the true meaning of impeccable suit style and discover your perfect fit.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much should a good suit cost?
The cost of a good suit varies significantly based on its type and level of customisation, ranging from a few hundred dollars for quality off-the-rack options to several thousand for bespoke designs.
Should I get my suit tailored?
Absolutely! Professional tailoring is essential to transform even a high-quality off-the-rack suit style into an impeccable fit that enhances your look and projects professionalism.
What’s the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke?
Made-to-measure suits begin with an existing base pattern that's adjusted to your specific measurements, offering a balance of customisation and cost. Bespoke suits are entirely custom-made from scratch with a unique pattern drafted exclusively for your body through multiple fittings.
How long should a suit last?
A high-quality suit should last anywhere from 8 to 12 years, or even longer with the right care and maintenance.